If you've already seen central Venice — or simply want to escape the crowds — the lagoon islands are the perfect alternative. They're quieter, cheaper, and offer a glimpse into how this area was actually settled: the islands came first, Venice itself came later.

Murano: Glass

In 1291, the Venetian Senate ordered all glassmaking furnaces moved to Murano — officially to reduce the fire risk to wooden Venice, but also to keep craftsmen under watch and prevent trade secrets from leaving the Republic. Glassblowers were forbidden from leaving the islands under threat of severe punishment.

Today Murano is home to both genuine workshops and shops selling imported glass dressed up as local. The mark of authenticity is the Vetro Artistico Murano label. Glassblowing demonstrations are held openly, usually free or for a nominal fee.

The Glass Museum is well worth a visit: it shows that Murano glassmaking is far more than souvenir figurines — it's a craft refined over seven centuries.

Burano: Colour

A fishermen's island of vividly painted houses. The romantic explanation: fishermen needed to spot their homes through the fog. The more practical one: colour marked family property boundaries. Painting your house still requires municipal approval, right down to the exact shade.

Burano's second claim to fame is lace. Handmade needle lace in the Burano style has been crafted here for centuries — today only a handful of true masters remain, and an authentic piece commands a serious price. Anything sold cheaply has nothing to do with the island.

The leaning bell tower of San Martino church is a local landmark and a handy point of reference.

Torcello: Emptiness

The most unexpected and most impressive island. In the seventh century, tens of thousands of people lived here — it was the lagoon's main settlement, wealthier than Venice at the time. Malaria and silting canals did their work: today, about ten people live on Torcello permanently.

The Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta remains, consecrated in 639, with Byzantine mosaics from the eleventh and twelfth centuries. The Last Judgment mosaic on the west wall rivals those in Ravenna — and there's almost no one around. That contrast alone makes the trip worth it.

Getting There

Vaporetto from Fondamente Nove: line 12 runs to Murano, Burano, and Torcello. The ride to Burano takes about forty minutes. A 24-hour travel pass pays for itself immediately.

The logical order: Murano first, then Burano, then Torcello (a short shuttle runs from Burano — five minutes). Head back on the direct return service.

The organised option: a lagoon islands tour — with a private boat, no connections and no timetable stress.

Practical

Time. Allow a full day for all three islands. For two — Murano and Burano — five to six hours is enough.

Food. On Burano, try bussolai — the local shortbread cookies sold at bakeries all over the island.

Schedule. Evening boats from Torcello are infrequent — check the last departure before you decide to stay for sunset.

FAQ

How do you tell real Murano glass?

Look for the Vetro Artistico Murano consortium mark — a sticker or stamp. Genuine pieces are never cheap and usually come with a studio certificate. Souvenirs priced at a few euros are made outside Italy.

How long do you need for all three islands?

A full day — about eight hours including travel. Murano takes an hour and a half to two hours, Burano the same, Torcello an hour, plus vaporetto rides in between.

Which is better — Murano or Burano?

Burano wins visually: the colourful houses and canals are far more photogenic. Murano is more rewarding in depth — ideal if you care about the history of the craft and want to watch glassblowers at work.